about 6 weeks ago i noticed moving white seasame seed shaped things on her faeces. I figured this was tapeworm and i wormed her and my other cat with a worming tablet that said it covered tape worm. About 24 hours later the worm came out, quite skinny and about 12inch long. Tonight i noticed the same seasame seed shaped things on her faeces, how is this possible? i have never had a worm problem with her before %26 the tablet said it covered them for 3 months! was this tapeworm? can i worm her again so soon?
Answers:
It is possible that she could have been reinfected and you will have to treat her again. When we have fosters we treat them with either Strongid which is given in 3 doses or we have also used Drontal which is a one dose pill and then we wait 2 weeks after giving and take a fecal sample into the vets to see if it is clear of worms. If it is not, we treat again and then test again.
Thursday, May 7, 2009
Taming mt 4 year old cat?
I got her when she was 6 weeks old. I think she was born with a bad temper She will scratch and bite you for no reason
Answers:
Cat owners sometimes have difficulty understanding why their cats seem friendly and content one minute and may suddenly bite and scratch them the next. Aggressive behaviors are part of the normal behavioral patterns of almost any animal species. Cat bites are seldom reported, but probably occur more frequently than dog bites. Aggressive cats can be dangerous, so attempting to resolve a cat aggression problem often requires assistance from an animal behavior specialist who is knowledgeable about cat behavior.
Types Of Aggression
Play Aggression
Play-motivated aggressive behaviors are commonly observed in young, active cats less than two years of age, that live in one-cat households. Play incorporates a variety of behaviors, such as exploratory, investigative and predatory, and provides young cats with opportunities to practice skills they would normally need for survival. For example, kittens like to explore new areas and investigate anything that moves, and may bat at, pounce on, and bite objects that resemble prey.
Playful aggression often occurs when an unsuspecting owner comes down the stairs, steps out of the bathtub, rounds a corner, or even moves under the bedcovers while sleeping. These playful attacks may result in scratches and inhibited bites which don't break the skin. People sometimes inadvertently initiate aggressive behavior by encouraging their cat to chase or bite at their hands and feet during play. The body postures seen during play aggression resemble the postures a cat would normally show when searching for or catching prey. A cat may freeze in a low crouch before pouncing, twitch her tail, flick her ears back and forth, and/or wrap her front feet around a person's hands or feet while biting. These are all normal cat behaviors, whether they're seen during play or are part of an actual predatory sequence. Most play aggression can be successfully redirected to appropriate targets, however, it may still result in injury (see our handout: "Managing Your Kitten's Rough Play").
"Don't Pet Me Anymore" Aggression
Some cats will suddenly bite while they're being petted. This behavior isn't well understood, even by experienced animal behaviorists. For whatever reason, petting which the cat was previously enjoying, apparently becomes unpleasant. Biting is the cat's signal that she has had enough petting. Cats vary in how much they'll tolerate being petted or held. Although people often describe their cats as biting "out of the blue" or without warning, cats do generally give several signals before biting.
You should become more aware of your cat's body postures, and cease petting or stop any other kind of interaction before a bite occurs. Signals to be aware of include:
Restlessness
Your cat's tail beginning to twitch
Your cat's ears turning back or flicking back and forth
Your cat turning or moving her head toward your hand
When you observe any of these signals, it's time to stop petting your cat immediately and allow her to sit quietly on your lap or go her own way, whichever she prefers. Any kind of physical punishment almost always makes the problem worse, because your cat is more likely to bite either because she is fearful and/or because petting becomes even more unpleasant if it's associated with punishment.
If you want to try to prolong the amount of time your cat will tolerate petting, use some food rewards. When your cat first begins to show any of the behaviors described above (or even before she does so) offer her a special tidbit of food like a tiny piece of tuna or boiled chicken. At the same time, decrease the intensity of your petting. Continue to lightly pet your cat for a short time period while offering her tidbits. In this way, she'll come to associate petting with pleasant things and it may help her to enjoy petting for longer time periods. Each time you work with your cat, try to pet her a little longer each time using the food as a reward. Be sure to stop the petting before she shows any aggression. If a display of aggression results in the petting being stopped, then this unacceptable behavior has worked.
What Not To Do
If your cats are fighting, don't allow the fights to continue. Because cats are so territorial, and because they don't establish firm dominance hierarchies, they won't be able to "work things out" as dogs sometimes do. The more often cats fight, the worse the problem is likely to become. To stop a fight in progress, make a loud noise, such as blowing a whistle, squirting the cats with water, or throwing something soft at them. Don't try to pull them apart.
Prevent future fights. This may mean keeping the cats totally separated from each other while you're working on the problem, or at least preventing contact between them in situations likely to trigger a fight.
Don't try to punish the cats involved. Punishment is likely to elicit further aggression and fearful responses, which will only make the problem worse. If you attempt punishment, you may become a target for redirected and defensive aggression.
Because their social organization is somewhat flexible, some cats are relatively tolerant of sharing their house and territory with multiple cats. It's not uncommon for a cat to tolerate some cats, but not get along with others in the house. However, the more cats sharing the same territory, the more likely it is that some of your cats will begin fighting with each other.
When you introduce cats to each other, one of them may send "play" signals which can be misinterpreted by the other cat. If those signals are interpreted as aggression by one of the cats, then you should handle the situation as "aggressive."
The factors that determine how well cats will get along together are not fully understood. Cats that are well-socialized (they had pleasant experiences with other cats during kittenhood) will likely be more sociable than those that haven't been around many other cats. On the other hand, "street cats" that are in the habit of fighting with other cats in order to defend their territory and food resources, may not do well in a multi-cat household. Genetic factors also influence a cat's temperament, so friendly parents are probably more likely to produce friendly offspring.
If your cat has not always done this, then check for a medical condition that is aggravating it.
If your cat has always had 'issues', then I suggest some form of discipline. The cat needs to know that it is not acceptable.
You could also have it declawed if necessary.
Wish you luck!
Cheers
Answers:
Cat owners sometimes have difficulty understanding why their cats seem friendly and content one minute and may suddenly bite and scratch them the next. Aggressive behaviors are part of the normal behavioral patterns of almost any animal species. Cat bites are seldom reported, but probably occur more frequently than dog bites. Aggressive cats can be dangerous, so attempting to resolve a cat aggression problem often requires assistance from an animal behavior specialist who is knowledgeable about cat behavior.
Types Of Aggression
Play Aggression
Play-motivated aggressive behaviors are commonly observed in young, active cats less than two years of age, that live in one-cat households. Play incorporates a variety of behaviors, such as exploratory, investigative and predatory, and provides young cats with opportunities to practice skills they would normally need for survival. For example, kittens like to explore new areas and investigate anything that moves, and may bat at, pounce on, and bite objects that resemble prey.
Playful aggression often occurs when an unsuspecting owner comes down the stairs, steps out of the bathtub, rounds a corner, or even moves under the bedcovers while sleeping. These playful attacks may result in scratches and inhibited bites which don't break the skin. People sometimes inadvertently initiate aggressive behavior by encouraging their cat to chase or bite at their hands and feet during play. The body postures seen during play aggression resemble the postures a cat would normally show when searching for or catching prey. A cat may freeze in a low crouch before pouncing, twitch her tail, flick her ears back and forth, and/or wrap her front feet around a person's hands or feet while biting. These are all normal cat behaviors, whether they're seen during play or are part of an actual predatory sequence. Most play aggression can be successfully redirected to appropriate targets, however, it may still result in injury (see our handout: "Managing Your Kitten's Rough Play").
"Don't Pet Me Anymore" Aggression
Some cats will suddenly bite while they're being petted. This behavior isn't well understood, even by experienced animal behaviorists. For whatever reason, petting which the cat was previously enjoying, apparently becomes unpleasant. Biting is the cat's signal that she has had enough petting. Cats vary in how much they'll tolerate being petted or held. Although people often describe their cats as biting "out of the blue" or without warning, cats do generally give several signals before biting.
You should become more aware of your cat's body postures, and cease petting or stop any other kind of interaction before a bite occurs. Signals to be aware of include:
Restlessness
Your cat's tail beginning to twitch
Your cat's ears turning back or flicking back and forth
Your cat turning or moving her head toward your hand
When you observe any of these signals, it's time to stop petting your cat immediately and allow her to sit quietly on your lap or go her own way, whichever she prefers. Any kind of physical punishment almost always makes the problem worse, because your cat is more likely to bite either because she is fearful and/or because petting becomes even more unpleasant if it's associated with punishment.
If you want to try to prolong the amount of time your cat will tolerate petting, use some food rewards. When your cat first begins to show any of the behaviors described above (or even before she does so) offer her a special tidbit of food like a tiny piece of tuna or boiled chicken. At the same time, decrease the intensity of your petting. Continue to lightly pet your cat for a short time period while offering her tidbits. In this way, she'll come to associate petting with pleasant things and it may help her to enjoy petting for longer time periods. Each time you work with your cat, try to pet her a little longer each time using the food as a reward. Be sure to stop the petting before she shows any aggression. If a display of aggression results in the petting being stopped, then this unacceptable behavior has worked.
What Not To Do
If your cats are fighting, don't allow the fights to continue. Because cats are so territorial, and because they don't establish firm dominance hierarchies, they won't be able to "work things out" as dogs sometimes do. The more often cats fight, the worse the problem is likely to become. To stop a fight in progress, make a loud noise, such as blowing a whistle, squirting the cats with water, or throwing something soft at them. Don't try to pull them apart.
Prevent future fights. This may mean keeping the cats totally separated from each other while you're working on the problem, or at least preventing contact between them in situations likely to trigger a fight.
Don't try to punish the cats involved. Punishment is likely to elicit further aggression and fearful responses, which will only make the problem worse. If you attempt punishment, you may become a target for redirected and defensive aggression.
Because their social organization is somewhat flexible, some cats are relatively tolerant of sharing their house and territory with multiple cats. It's not uncommon for a cat to tolerate some cats, but not get along with others in the house. However, the more cats sharing the same territory, the more likely it is that some of your cats will begin fighting with each other.
When you introduce cats to each other, one of them may send "play" signals which can be misinterpreted by the other cat. If those signals are interpreted as aggression by one of the cats, then you should handle the situation as "aggressive."
The factors that determine how well cats will get along together are not fully understood. Cats that are well-socialized (they had pleasant experiences with other cats during kittenhood) will likely be more sociable than those that haven't been around many other cats. On the other hand, "street cats" that are in the habit of fighting with other cats in order to defend their territory and food resources, may not do well in a multi-cat household. Genetic factors also influence a cat's temperament, so friendly parents are probably more likely to produce friendly offspring.
If your cat has not always done this, then check for a medical condition that is aggravating it.
If your cat has always had 'issues', then I suggest some form of discipline. The cat needs to know that it is not acceptable.
You could also have it declawed if necessary.
Wish you luck!
Cheers
Taking cat on 6 hour trip?
I am moving my 3 year old female cat to my boyfriend's house where I will eventually be moving as well. I've been taking her for rides in the car around the neighborhood to get her used to the car. I let her roam free since it's just in the neighborhood. So far so good but I'm afraid she's going to try and get under my feet when the bid day comes. But she hates her carrier and I'm trying to make the ride as stress free as possible. What's a safe alternative travel method to a cat carrier?
Answers:
I drove cross country with my cat. you can get something from your vet to sedate it. it doesn't hurt them it should be okay.
See if you can get one of those metal things to put over the trunk space if you have an open trunk or maybe go to the dr to see if he can sedate her before the trip
The cat carrier is the best idea. If she is really upset, a mild sedative from your vet would be a good for the car ride. maybe lock her in an empty bedroom (with food and water etc.) until time for her travels to start.
You can actually buy mild pet sedatives, over the counter.
I actually bought some today for my chihuahua because Im going on a 10 hour car trip.
It was 8 dollars at petsmart.
Here are a link to some for you to look at on the petsmart website:
http://www.petsmart.com/global/search/se...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
They are located in the health section of the actual petsmart store, with the supplements.
I've travelled with cats free in the car. And since you've been taking yours for rides, that might work. I think cats do better when they can see out the window, but be careful exiting/entering the car.
I have always traveled with my cat free in the car. I have taken her on 4 hour rides and didn't have any problems. She just rode in the back window.
Answers:
I drove cross country with my cat. you can get something from your vet to sedate it. it doesn't hurt them it should be okay.
See if you can get one of those metal things to put over the trunk space if you have an open trunk or maybe go to the dr to see if he can sedate her before the trip
The cat carrier is the best idea. If she is really upset, a mild sedative from your vet would be a good for the car ride. maybe lock her in an empty bedroom (with food and water etc.) until time for her travels to start.
You can actually buy mild pet sedatives, over the counter.
I actually bought some today for my chihuahua because Im going on a 10 hour car trip.
It was 8 dollars at petsmart.
Here are a link to some for you to look at on the petsmart website:
http://www.petsmart.com/global/search/se...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
They are located in the health section of the actual petsmart store, with the supplements.
I've travelled with cats free in the car. And since you've been taking yours for rides, that might work. I think cats do better when they can see out the window, but be careful exiting/entering the car.
I have always traveled with my cat free in the car. I have taken her on 4 hour rides and didn't have any problems. She just rode in the back window.
Taking care of orphaned kitten!?
I've recently rescued a stray kitten off the side of the road. He/she is around 3 -5 weeks old, I'm guessing. I've been feeding the kitten, kitty milk replacement. It's been feeding very well. The only problem is, the bottom lip area of the kitten has been torn off or hasn't grown in right. It has bled very little. I'm not sure what to do. I can't take it to the vet, because I don't have enough money for a vet bill. Can I put some kind of medicine on the kitten's sore mouth? What should I do?
Answers:
Have you tried calling a vet to find out exactly what the cost of the visit is? Usually a vet will charge $30-$40 just for the visit and then extra for any additional procedures, like x-rays or medication given to the animal. Also, you don鈥檛 have to pay all at once; you can probably work out a payment plan with them. Taking care of an animal is a big responsibility. Owning a pet does cost money. If you can鈥檛 afford vet care for the kitten, my only suggestion is that you take him to your local animal care and control office or humane society. They will take care of any medical problems he may have and put him up for adoption. I鈥檓 glad that you rescued the kitten from the streets. Without your intervention, it would have died so you did the right thing. Now you just have to make a decision about whether or not you can afford to keep the kitten for the rest of his life.
I don't recommend treating the kitten yourself. Home remedies most often do more harm that good and you can make things worse for the animal very quickly.
You can try neosporin, but really you need to take it to the vet. If you can't afford it, you shouldn't have a pet. Plus, it needs to get shots too.
Good for you for rescuing the poor thing and i wish you luck
i would call the vet and ask what to do
they wont charge you for a call and if you dont plan on keeping him/her they will probably take him/her off your hands
if you are going to which i dont suggest since you already said you can pay for a vet visit which if it were to get really sick and you couldnt take it in then it would be neglect.
Sorry, I really don't know what to tell you. But I think you are an awesome person-not anyone would do what you are doing now! The best of luck to you and hope someone on here gives a really great answer!
your little kitten really does need to be seen by a vet for the lip as well as to ensure it is getting enough nutrients.
try investigating lower cost vets, like animal rescues or catteries. there would be an option for a low cost clinic somewhere.
if you caring for a kitten is going to mean it gets neglected in these ways due to finance, then you would be better off finding another home for it. you are very kind to be taking care of it, but care does also mean appropiate vet care.
don't let this little kitten suffer any more than it has.
all the best for you, and kitty.
Answers:
Have you tried calling a vet to find out exactly what the cost of the visit is? Usually a vet will charge $30-$40 just for the visit and then extra for any additional procedures, like x-rays or medication given to the animal. Also, you don鈥檛 have to pay all at once; you can probably work out a payment plan with them. Taking care of an animal is a big responsibility. Owning a pet does cost money. If you can鈥檛 afford vet care for the kitten, my only suggestion is that you take him to your local animal care and control office or humane society. They will take care of any medical problems he may have and put him up for adoption. I鈥檓 glad that you rescued the kitten from the streets. Without your intervention, it would have died so you did the right thing. Now you just have to make a decision about whether or not you can afford to keep the kitten for the rest of his life.
I don't recommend treating the kitten yourself. Home remedies most often do more harm that good and you can make things worse for the animal very quickly.
You can try neosporin, but really you need to take it to the vet. If you can't afford it, you shouldn't have a pet. Plus, it needs to get shots too.
Good for you for rescuing the poor thing and i wish you luck
i would call the vet and ask what to do
they wont charge you for a call and if you dont plan on keeping him/her they will probably take him/her off your hands
if you are going to which i dont suggest since you already said you can pay for a vet visit which if it were to get really sick and you couldnt take it in then it would be neglect.
Sorry, I really don't know what to tell you. But I think you are an awesome person-not anyone would do what you are doing now! The best of luck to you and hope someone on here gives a really great answer!
your little kitten really does need to be seen by a vet for the lip as well as to ensure it is getting enough nutrients.
try investigating lower cost vets, like animal rescues or catteries. there would be an option for a low cost clinic somewhere.
if you caring for a kitten is going to mean it gets neglected in these ways due to finance, then you would be better off finding another home for it. you are very kind to be taking care of it, but care does also mean appropiate vet care.
don't let this little kitten suffer any more than it has.
all the best for you, and kitty.
Taking care of cats & being pregnant?
feces--i know that when your pregnant you are not supposed to change the litter box. but what is toximia... (?) exactly. is it the littler fumes? or the feces? or them together? what is the dangerous part? we have an automatic box but sometimes it needs more littler to be added, can i do that? or when the cat accidentially gets feces on the floor, can i clean that up? does anyone know exactly what is the problem, i don't want to put my child at risk, but we want to keep the cat.
Answers:
It's the cat feces. You can clean it up as long as you are cautious and wear gloves and wash your hands after. It can only be transferred if you ingest it...I know that's pretty gross!
You can have your cat tested.
FYI: Do you have a regular self cleaning litter box or the flushing litter box? The flushing box is great, I highly recommend it! You don't have to change the box's like the self cleaning one, it actually flushes the waste either down the drain or into your toilet! And the pellets are not clay and they don't kick up dust. I really like mine so I like to share my experience with it. It's not cheap but it's worth it, and the litter and cleaning fluid are cheaper.
The BabyCentre Editorial Team answers:
Cat faeces can carry a parasite that causes toxoplasmosis, an infection that isn't serious for you but can pose a danger to your developing baby. Some birds and other animals, as well as some raw or undercooked meats, can also carry the parasite. Toxoplasmosis causes most severe damage to the fetus if a woman comes down with it in her first trimester.
Happily, the odds of contracting toxoplasmosis during pregnancy are low, and if you've had it once, you can't catch it again. What's more, it's rare for a woman to be infected for the first time during pregnancy. If you live with cats, the likelihood is even higher that you've already contracted the disease and developed an immunity to it. Read our article on toxoplasmosis for more information.
Experts recommend that pregnant women should avoid emptying the cat litter tray, but that it should be cleared every day by someone else. If you have to do it yourself, always wear gloves. Wear gloves when you're gardening, too, to cut down the risk of infection.
There is a blood test which can show whether you have had toxoplasmosis. If you are worried, speak to your GP about it.
it part from the littler but also the urin from the cat. If you must change your litter box usea mask that what I did. But do try to get someone else to change it for you it can cause harm to the ubborn baby.
I made my husband change the box, or I wore plastic gloves when I did it, and tried not to inhale...ha. Adding litter wouldn't be bad, it's just the feces and dirty litter you have to worry about. Always wash your hands, of course.
Toxoplasmosis is a parasitic disease that you can get from cat feces, raw or undercooked meat, and from drinking water that has been contaminated. You should not scoop the cat box if you are pregnant because this can be passed from mother to fetus and can be very serious for the fetus. Go to www.wikipedia.com type in toxoplasmosis and read all about it. Have someone else in your house empty the litter until after your baby is born.
its not toxemia BUT toxoplasmosis, which causes "brain rotting" in the undeveloped fetus think of it kinda like a hard coated candy that you suck on for a long time until you get to the center which is different then the outer shell well anyway the toxoplasmosis, is in the cats feces----no you can not clean up cat feces whether on the floor or in the litter box toxoplasmosis is INHALED in your lungs minute partcles unseen by the naked eye once inhaled in your lungs goes into your blood stream circulates in your blood and crosses the blood barrier in your placenta to your unborn child " atttacking" the unborn harmless fetus's brain HAVE YOUR SPOUSE OR ANOTHER ADULT CHANGE THE LITTER OUTSIDE AWAY FROM YOU!!!!
it's a parasite from the faeces.but when I was pregnant, I was just cautious that I wasn't exposed to any...and I was fine. I have 2 cats and it ws a bit concerning as it was my first pregnancy, but in the end it was all good.
Have your hubby do the cat box.. Do not touch anything to do with the cat box without gloves and long sleeves..!!! It is also in the amonia the cat puts off when they go to the bathroom. Sorry, but the feces on the floor will have to stay there until hubby gets home. I love animals too I have 4 dogs. My hubby is allergic to cats, but I would love to have one. You should be able to add litter as long as you do not breath in the fumes. My mother-in-law had 9 cats, I refused to go to her house while I was pregnant and she lived next door. Congrats and I hope this helps.
If you have been handling litter up to your pregnancy, you've probably already been exposed to toxoplasmosis and have built up an immunity to it. If possible, it's still a good idea to have someone else deal with the litter box. If that's not possible, then just make sure to wear rubber gloves and a mask that covers your nose and mouth.
I always got someone else to do the trays for me to be on the safe side.
Wear gloves if you do them.
Answers:
It's the cat feces. You can clean it up as long as you are cautious and wear gloves and wash your hands after. It can only be transferred if you ingest it...I know that's pretty gross!
You can have your cat tested.
FYI: Do you have a regular self cleaning litter box or the flushing litter box? The flushing box is great, I highly recommend it! You don't have to change the box's like the self cleaning one, it actually flushes the waste either down the drain or into your toilet! And the pellets are not clay and they don't kick up dust. I really like mine so I like to share my experience with it. It's not cheap but it's worth it, and the litter and cleaning fluid are cheaper.
The BabyCentre Editorial Team answers:
Cat faeces can carry a parasite that causes toxoplasmosis, an infection that isn't serious for you but can pose a danger to your developing baby. Some birds and other animals, as well as some raw or undercooked meats, can also carry the parasite. Toxoplasmosis causes most severe damage to the fetus if a woman comes down with it in her first trimester.
Happily, the odds of contracting toxoplasmosis during pregnancy are low, and if you've had it once, you can't catch it again. What's more, it's rare for a woman to be infected for the first time during pregnancy. If you live with cats, the likelihood is even higher that you've already contracted the disease and developed an immunity to it. Read our article on toxoplasmosis for more information.
Experts recommend that pregnant women should avoid emptying the cat litter tray, but that it should be cleared every day by someone else. If you have to do it yourself, always wear gloves. Wear gloves when you're gardening, too, to cut down the risk of infection.
There is a blood test which can show whether you have had toxoplasmosis. If you are worried, speak to your GP about it.
it part from the littler but also the urin from the cat. If you must change your litter box usea mask that what I did. But do try to get someone else to change it for you it can cause harm to the ubborn baby.
I made my husband change the box, or I wore plastic gloves when I did it, and tried not to inhale...ha. Adding litter wouldn't be bad, it's just the feces and dirty litter you have to worry about. Always wash your hands, of course.
Toxoplasmosis is a parasitic disease that you can get from cat feces, raw or undercooked meat, and from drinking water that has been contaminated. You should not scoop the cat box if you are pregnant because this can be passed from mother to fetus and can be very serious for the fetus. Go to www.wikipedia.com type in toxoplasmosis and read all about it. Have someone else in your house empty the litter until after your baby is born.
its not toxemia BUT toxoplasmosis, which causes "brain rotting" in the undeveloped fetus think of it kinda like a hard coated candy that you suck on for a long time until you get to the center which is different then the outer shell well anyway the toxoplasmosis, is in the cats feces----no you can not clean up cat feces whether on the floor or in the litter box toxoplasmosis is INHALED in your lungs minute partcles unseen by the naked eye once inhaled in your lungs goes into your blood stream circulates in your blood and crosses the blood barrier in your placenta to your unborn child " atttacking" the unborn harmless fetus's brain HAVE YOUR SPOUSE OR ANOTHER ADULT CHANGE THE LITTER OUTSIDE AWAY FROM YOU!!!!
it's a parasite from the faeces.but when I was pregnant, I was just cautious that I wasn't exposed to any...and I was fine. I have 2 cats and it ws a bit concerning as it was my first pregnancy, but in the end it was all good.
Have your hubby do the cat box.. Do not touch anything to do with the cat box without gloves and long sleeves..!!! It is also in the amonia the cat puts off when they go to the bathroom. Sorry, but the feces on the floor will have to stay there until hubby gets home. I love animals too I have 4 dogs. My hubby is allergic to cats, but I would love to have one. You should be able to add litter as long as you do not breath in the fumes. My mother-in-law had 9 cats, I refused to go to her house while I was pregnant and she lived next door. Congrats and I hope this helps.
If you have been handling litter up to your pregnancy, you've probably already been exposed to toxoplasmosis and have built up an immunity to it. If possible, it's still a good idea to have someone else deal with the litter box. If that's not possible, then just make sure to wear rubber gloves and a mask that covers your nose and mouth.
I always got someone else to do the trays for me to be on the safe side.
Wear gloves if you do them.
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